Echeveria Etna is a beautiful succulent that belongs to the family of Crassulaceae.
This succulent is a hybrid that was created by Denise Manley between Echeveria ‘Mauna Loa’ and Echeveria ‘Barbillion’. Echeveria ‘Etna’ is one of the three echeverias that are in the ‘Volcano Series’.
This succulent has a distinct appearance with rosettes that have frosty blue and violet leaves with warts. These rosettes grow up to the size of 12 inches in diameter. The bell-shaped flowers have shades of orange and red.
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Echeveria Etna Care Guide
Echeveria Etna requires a substantial amount of light in order to thrive. They should receive at least four to five hours of bright, direct light on a daily basis. Placing your plant outdoors during the summer months will help it to thrive.
Echeveria Etna that does not receive enough light will become elongated and leggy, often ‘reaching’ towards the closest source of light. It is also unlikely that they will flower. If you have your plant on a windowsill, turn the plant occasionally to ensure that all sides of your plant get enough sun.
On the other hand, too many hours of intense, direct sunlight can result in sunburn.
Echeveria Etna, like most succulents, does not require much water as they store water in their fleshy leaves. Wait until the soil has dried out completely before watering your plant, and then give it a good watering, making sure the excess water drains out from the pot.
If you water too much or too little, your Echeveria Etna will start to wilt, wrinkle, or drop leaves. However, it is better to err on the side of under-watering, as they can quickly succumb to root rot if overwatered. With that in mind, Echeveria Etna should never be kept in damp soil.
When watering Echeveria Etna, always water the soil directly and avoid allowing water to sit on the rosette of the succulent as this can lead to rot and fungal disease.
During the spring and summer, this succulent will need to be watered more frequently than it will in the winter.
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Echeveria Etna requires a well-draining, porous growing medium to help keep excess moisture away from the roots. Standard soil for cactus potting is sufficient for this succulent, which can be found at most nurseries and garden centers.
If growing in containers, make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom to allow water to drain from the soil. Soil that is constantly damp or doesn’t drain well will result in root rot.
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Echeveria Etna thrives in hot, dry conditions. For the most part, they do not tolerate cold temperatures or cold drafts well and too much humidity can lead to root rot. Echeveria Etna grows well indoors in average room conditions with around 40% – 50% humidity.
During the spring and summer months, your indoor Echeveria Etna needs temperatures of between 65 and 80°F (18 – 27°C). During the winter, a few degrees lower will be ideal. Outdoors, this succulent loves warm summers of at least 19°C or 20°C.
Generally, fertilizing is not a requirement for Echeveria Etna as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil, which makes them susceptible to fertilizer burn if over-fertilized.
However, if you want to encourage healthy growth, you can use a cactus or succulent fertilizer or low-nitrogen mix that has been diluted 3 or 4 times more than the recommended dose.
Only feed a small amount every 2 or 3 weeks during the spring and summer months which is their active growing period.
Potting and Repotting
When choosing a pot or container to grow an Echeveria Etna in, it is important to choose the right size. As a rule of thumb for all succulents, choose a pot that is slightly larger than the root ball. This helps to ensure the soil doesn’t stay too damp.
Echeveria Etna does not require frequent repotting and should only be repotted once they have outgrown their previous container. To repot an Echeveria Etna, ensure that the soil is completely dry before removing it from its potting container. Repotting in the spring is usually recommended as the plant will be entering into its active growing period.
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Propagating Echeveria Etna
Echeveria Etna propagates mainly through offsets, leaf cuttings, and seeds. A mature plant will produce offsets from its main stem, which can be separated and propagated as a separate plant. Alternatively, it can be propagated through leaf cuttings.
If the succulent has already formed several rosettes, it is particularly easy to propagate. All you have to do is cut off the rosettes. The offshoots should be at least two centimeters in diameter.
The best time to cut off the rosettes is May. Pluck apart the individual rosettes, then plant them separately.